PDW19: I LOVE PARIS INTERVIEW
RUBEN MODIGLIANI - Senior Editor AD ITALIA
I was born in a family of design fanatics and I grew up in an amazing house just outside Florence. And I have always loved magazines. Paris 1983, my first trip alone. I fell in love with the city and still am. I really, really like (randomly): its everchanging sky, pain aux raisins, neighborhood flower shops, the fact that you can actually walk to everywhere (provided you have the time), passages, museums, early 20th century buildings.
At first, I didn't even know the northern arrondissements. Then, as I got a bit more experienced, I started to explore them. And I found many reasons to love them: for their down-to-earth atmosphere, for the unpretentious and delicious cafés, for the people, for the unexpected finds in places were tourist rarely - if ever - go. How daring! And how Paris.
My favourite addresses :
* Eglise Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre, the first church in reinforced concrete, still Art Nouveau but already longing for Rationalism. And I love the ceramic round tiles in the façade.
* Place Saint-Georges. I love to sit at the café sipping something and pretending I own the fabulous hôtel Thiers, that sits just on the opposite side (27, place Saint-Georges - the one at number 28, owned by the legendary Marquise de Païva, is a tad too brash for me).
* Musée Gustave Moreau for the spectacular staircase linking the two floors of the atelier. For the drawers full of drawings. And of course "L'apparition", a painting that never fails to impress.
* La Recyclerie, restaurant-plus-activities center in a former train station, for the atmosphere, the food and the light. And because it's the perfect pit stop to recharge before or after going to the Marché aux Puces.
* Le Centquatre, where I saw a Keith Haring exhibit that's still my mind, for the crew of kids practicing urban dance moves.
* Parc des Buttes-Chaumont for the totally dramatic Temple de la Sybille, perfect pavilion for the afternoon tea of a lifetime (one day or another I'll bring thermos and cups). And for Rosa Bonheur, such a funny place with its bal musette/Oktoberfest vibe.
* The Butte-Bergeyre, micro-neighborhood perched up on a small hill hidden behind a curtain of tall buildings. You take the stairs at 17 rue Manin and it's like entering, step by step, a different time. Once on top you will find cobbled streets, tiny gardens, and one of the few Parisian wineyards. Plus a spectacular view on the Sacré-Coeur.
* 72 rue de Belleville: birthplace of Edith Piaf. Enough said.
* Entrepots Macdonald: the longest (617 metres!) building in Paris, an array of very eclectic contemporary architectures built on a masterplan coordinated by OMA. It's still Paris, but it feels like another world.